![]() ![]() Make each leg layer 4 1/2″ wide at this stage. You’ll want to leave lots of extra width for jointing after lamination. Don’t plane or joint any of these parts yet and be especially generous when roughing out the layers of wood you’ll need for the legs. This is called stickering and you’ll be doing it throughout the building process. Rough-cut these longer and wider than needed, then stack them with spacers between the layers to promote drying. Start by sorting through the pile of 2 x 10s you carefully selected at the lumberyard, choosing the best for panels, side rails, legs and leg caps. You can’t build this project without these machines, so don’t even try. ![]() The cost of doing business with this under-appreciated material is access to a jointer, thickness planer and tablesaw. There’s beautiful wood bound for use in house frames, and you’ll save money by redirecting the best of it into your workshop, air drying it and turning it into furniture. People who see the bed are surprised to learn it’s made almost entirely from construction-grade 2 x 10s. After building the bed, and tucking our boys in it for more than four months, there’s not much I’d change. And besides, what kind of a woodworker buys a bed? So after a few spirited design discussions with my wife, and half a dozen crumpled scale drawings, a plan emerged. I couldn’t even find a design I wanted to copy. ![]() I couldn’t find anything I liked enough to spend money on. That’s why I tried to buy a bunk bed, although without any success. Time was in short supply for me earlier this year, as an impending new baby meant our two boys had to move into the same bedroom. ![]()
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